Lexus GS (1998-2005) Steering Rack Bushing Replacement DIY




A Do it Yourself for Replacing the Steering Rack Bushing of a Second Generation Lexus GS

Works For:
1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Lexus GS Models
Lexus GS Models include: GS 300, GS 400, GS 430

Source: ClubLexus

This is a Steering Rack Bushing Replacement DIY which will work for Second Generation Lexus GS’s (1999-2000 Lexus GS 400, 2001-2005 Lexus GS430, 1998-2005 Lexus GS300)

Q: What is the Daizen Steering Rack Bushing kit?

A: The Daizen Steering Rack Bushing kit is a kit of polyurethane bushings that replaces your old OEM rubber bushing on the steering rack. Because the OEM bushings are made out of rubber, they will become weak over time and your steering rack will be prone to movement. This is unacceptable because there will be more slop than necessary (read: loose/unprecise steering)

Q: How do I know if I need to replace my bushings?:

A: You’ll want a friend/buddy to help you with this. The car should not be jacked up at this point. You’ll want the tires touching the ground. First, turn your ignition to the “on” position without turning the engine on. This will prevent the steering from locking up. Next, have your friend sit in the car and continuously steer the steering wheel back and forth quickly. While your friend is doing this, look under the car at the steering rack. If it’s moving, your bushings are worn out.

Q: How long will the installation and how’s the difficulty?

A: Although the length of time required will vary depending on the person behind the job, it should take approximately 45min-1hour. The work itself is very easy. It’s just a matter of working through it smoothly without complication. If you can hold a wrench, you can do this job.

Q: Okay that sounds great. Now where can I buy it and how much?

A: Contact our vendor TM Engineering for the kit. The price is $39.95+shipping (Part No. GS-2030)

http://www.tmengineering.net/suspens…n/make/gs.html

Sewell Lexus now carries it 

Q: Now that I’ve got the kit, how do I install it?

A: That’s where I chime in  The instruction provided by Daizen is pretty vague. All it tells you to do is remove the old bushing and install the new one. No kidding. 

Tools Needed:
-10mm wrench
-14mm socket
-17mm socket
-3/8″ or 1/2″ rachet (breaker bar recommended, or use a metal pipe for extension)
-3/8″ or 1/2″ socket extension
-Swivel head for rachet
-Torque wrench
-Mallet or hammer
-plier
-Screwdriver (standard length)
-Jackstand

Step 1:
-Make sure your car is parked with the emergency brakes engaged. Jack up the car enough to the point where you think you’re able to work under the car. Put on jackstands and use wheel chokes on the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling

Step 2:
-Remove the lower chassis brace. There should be (6) 14mm screws to remove. I have no picture, but it should be self-explanatory once you get down there.

Step 3:
-Get under the Passenger side of the car and remove the (1) 10mm bolt with your 10mm wrench. The bolt is pointed by the green arrow in the picture. This must be removed, otherwise your 17mm socket wont fit into the 17mm bolt because of clearance issue.

-Remove the (2) 17mm bolt (indicated by the two red arrows). Then the metal bracket should be able to slide off. Remove the old rubber bushing and proceed to throw it in the trash.  In my case, the bushing was so worn out that it because very very soft. It flopped around easily.


Step 4:
-Next, hop on over to the driver side where things are a bit more complicated, but nothing impossible. Remove the (2) 17mm bolts (indicated by the red arrows). You’ll need the socket extension to reach the upper bolt. You should be able to move your steering rack around, but it wont drop so dont worry 

Step 5:
-Now this is where the fun begins  You’ll need to remove the old bushings out.Daizen suggests to use a mallet to hammer it out  . I found out an easier way to get it out. Take your screwdriver and slide it through the hole. Now take your mallet and hit your screwdriver with a good amount of force. It’ll eventually go through, and it’s a whole lot easier than what Daizen recommends.

Step 6:
-The upper bushing is more challenging, but again, not impossible. Take your plier and put it through the upper bushing, but put it in from the front of the car. See picture:

Use your mallet and hit against the plier and the bushing should pop out. Result of the old bushing?

Can you guess which one is which? 

Step 7:
-So now you’re done removing everything. It’s a breeze from here on. Put in your new Daizen bushings. It’s very obvious on how to put it them in so I doubt a picture is needed.

-Next bolt on all the corresponding bolts. It’s backward from here on out. All the bolts should be torqued to 48ft/lbs.

Step 8:
-Enjoy 





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