Install the Front Springs and Struts/ Shocks on a Third or Fourth Generation Toyota Camry (1992-1996 and 1997-2001)
1992 Toyota Camry
1993 Toyota Camry
1994 Toyota Camry
1995 Toyota Camry
1996 Toyota Camry
1997 Toyota Camry
1998 Toyota Camry
1999 Toyota Camry
2000 Toyota Camry
2001 Toyota Camry
This install I am using Tokico blues and H&R springs.
- 12, 14, 19, 24 (?) mm deep sockets (impact work best!)
- Impact gun if available
- Spring Compressor
- Hammers, pry bars, screwdrivers
- Jack the car up and put it on jack stands with the rear wheels blocked and the parking brake on. Remove the wheels.
- Remove the 12 mm brake line connected to the strut.
- Remove the two 19 mm bolts/nuts from the bottom of the strut. They’re on at 150 ft/lbs, and even my impact gun had trouble getting them. Might need a torch.
- LOOSEN but do NOT remove the middle 19 mm nut for the strut mount. If you remove it, expect to go the hospital.
- Remove the three 14 mm nuts from the top of the strut mount. The strut will fall. Wrangle it out of there. Hopefully you bought new mounts, new everything, and don’t need anything so just set the old setup aside.
- Get your springs/struts/mounts/rubbers out now and assemble them together. I put these on a 94 camry, but I was sent struts for a 96 so needed the top mount bearings for it.
- Compress the spring. You need to compress it enough to be able to put the strut mount over it and still have some play. You’ll understand when you do it.
- If you’re lucky like me, you’ll get sold the wrong lower insulator (gave me the rear instead of the front) which happens to be a little too small.
But it’s rubber, right? So it’ll stretch. Grab yourself some zip ties and tie it up like so:
- Place the spring on the strut, place the mount on top and make sure the grooves LINE UP with the strut threads. Then start the middle strut mount nut. Make sure the side farthest downward faces in towards the engine, away from the 19 mm bottom strut mounting bolts.
- Decompress the spring. Then tighten up the middle nut. Make sure that the strut shaft moves WITH the mount, or else it’s not lined up. Once you’ve done this, cut the zip ties off, they should just slide right out, if not with the help from some pliers.
- Reinstall on the car. Three top 14 mm bolts first, torque to 50 ft/lbs. Then the bottom two 19 mm bolts. They are a pain to get on, just wrestle with the brake hub until it’s lined up then slam one in. These are torqued to 150 ft/lbs. Brake line is next, 12 mm. 36 in/lbs. Then the middle nut on top can be torqued to 39 ft/lbs.
- Reinstall your wheels and torque to 76 ft/lbs.
- Drop the car and admire your wheel gap (1.5 fingers!)
Test drive it. Then re-torque EVERYTHING.
Will do a write up for the rears tomorrow…
Disclaimer: Use this guide at your own risk. I don’t feel like coming up with anything witty to say here…