Replace the Brake Pads and Brake Rotors on a 4th Generation (2001-2007) Dodge Caravan
2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 Dodge Caravan Models
- It’s a good idea to leave some weight on the tire as you start loosening the lug nuts; if they’re tight, the car itself is holding the tire still for you.
- Make sure you have a jack supporting most of the weight before you attempt to remove the lug nuts. If you take them all the way off with the tire fully supporting the car you will have “issues”.
- After jacking up the car PLACE JACK STAND(S) under the car for safety, THEN take off the wheel.
- Take a 13/16″ socket and take off the bolt holding the entire caliper assembly to the car.
- Take the 13/16″ socket and remove the lower bolt holding the caliper assembly to the vehicle.
- Be ready when the two bolts are backed out enough, as the caliper will be free to fall. The bolts don’t have to come out all the way for the caliper to be free.
- You MUST not allow the brake line to be overstressed. Have a milk crate and wood ready to hold it up.
- Don’t have your work light RIGHT up against the flimsy plastic of the splash-shroud. I was back and forth from the house for tools. Came out to a burning smell. VERY funny. When THIS is the worst thing that happens in your automotive project, you’re doing OK.
- A little souvenir from the incident.
- And a little evidence left on the car.
- This is the caliper freed from the car and supported.
- One should take off the brake fluid resevoir cap, since later we’ll be pushing old pads back, and raising the overall level.
- The cap itself says to clean it first.
- If the fluid has been “topped off” at any time, then one will have to pay attention to overflow during later steps. If the fluid hasn’t been altered since new, then there should be no worries.
- The old pads now come out by hand. Some jiggling may be necessary, but in my application, I didn’t even have to tap them with anything. The pads sit passively in little channels, and come out towards the inside. There should be little clips remaining.
- The new pads are thicker than the old, obviously.
- With the caliper moved aside and supported, the rotor comes right off by hand. In my case, it was not rusted solid in any way.
- A peek at the old rotor alongside for no reason.
- Make sure to use a good quality brake cleaner on the new rotors and do not touch it with your bare hands after cleaning.
- The red/pink goo is Anti-Squeal, which when put on the back of the pad, can later prevent high pitch squealing. It takes a while to dry, so one might put a light coating on the pads before beginning….
- The pad goes into the carrier, inside the channels defined by the clips, and up against the retracted piston. One can see here the tabbed-end of the pad, in the carrier’s channel, and the clip peeking out, keeping order….
- The business end of the new pad.
- With the two 3/16″ bolts back in, it’s DONE!
- You might choose a smidge of anti-seize on the 3/16″ bolts, so that they’ll come off next time.
- The other side of the car is done the same way of course.
- DON’T FORGET TO CLOSE UP YOUR BRAKE FLUID RESEVOIR!
- After the car is safely lowered and you start it up, the brake pedal will go the floor several times as the system pressurizes. You’ll hear a noticeable clicking from the pedal. This is the “Apply brake to shift” mechanism. It will settle down as the brake pedal firms up. It took about 5 or 6 slow/gentle applications.